Sunday, July 16, 2017

Shelves & Counters

With the base cabinets framed I could start fitting counter tops. That's when I hit a snag. I knew the 1/2" plywood I got was somewhat warped. Yet I hoped it would suck down flat enough to the cabinets. Especially after cutting a hole for the sink. Thereby weakening both edges of that corner. Nope. Test fitting the sink I discovered that corner curl was too much.

Some folks would just chalk a lesson and chuck the cheap board. Then redo that counter piece using premium plywood. Worse yet, MDF. Phfbt! I decided to flatten it. Kerf cuts in the back side relieved some of the deformation.

Moreover, those cuts made it directionally pliable for straightening. It was clamped to overbow just a bit the opposite way. Then the kerfs were filled with epoxy. Once cured it now lays flat enough. Some of the epoxy soaked into the grooves before curing. So wood glue was added to reflush the underside.

For the base cabinets new faces were built. The cabinets rely on the shell itself for backs. For the shelves a number of blocks were added around the curved walls to support the back edge. The blocks were epoxied to the shell. A ledge was added inside cabinet faces to support the front edge of the shelves.

To make the blocks I combined two prior experiences into one better idea. Stacking curved pieces of plywood together they could be glued and air nailed. Curved blocks much faster than overnight drying one at a time.

A bandsaw was ideal for trimming blocks to match shell curvature - both horizontal arcs and vertical bevels. A sanding disc in the tablesaw made that machine ideal to clean up surfaces for adhesion and tweak the fit. A 2D level app on my smartphone was handy to determine and check angles. Similar blocks support the backside of each counter top. The front edges of the counters sit on each cabinet face.

The corner was mitered for two reasons. First, assembly. One big, L shaped counter couldn't make the turns and drop in place preassembled. As a bonus, should the counter ever need to be removed in the future, why not bake that convenience into the design? Turn's out the counters need to be removed and replaced a few times during construction.

For this application I devised a bolted joint to facilitate alignment of the two miter edges. A pair of bolts close the gap and lock them together. The holes were overbored slightly and the nuts and bolt heads shouldered with washers for final alignment of the topside edges. This contraption is hidden on the bottom side of the counter in dead space anyway.

Those other bolts were for clamping the counters down to the base cabinets. The bolts thread up into T nuts. See the exmaple bolt and T nut, just beneath the miter joint? Good eye. Eventually, the topside T nuts will be entombed by laminate. After construction work and associated risk of surface damage is done. Meanwhile, unfinished counters provide useful work surface.

As for all the bolts shown above, they're custom lengths. They needed to be long enough for good thread engagement. But not too long or they'd raise the laminate. They were made custom length from threaded rod with nuts welded on one end for bolt heads.

With counter tops in place it was exciting to test fit some appliances. See design elements come together. Start feeling the new usability. I knew the stove would be a squeeze into the shallow, side counter.

For me it was a good tradeoff. The stove is still usable with the bed extended. Same goes for the porta potty. Which stows underneath. For convenient access. At night. On short notice. After a midnight potty break ya wanna wash yer hands. Right?!

Yes the sink is crowded against the closet. That's for access with the bed pulled out. Otherwise it would be awkward. It would've looked even more crowded. I was planning to reuse a sink that came with this camper. The Universe threw me a better idea, however. Check out my $2 garage sale find. Double score! I really like the idea of having a second basin for a dish rack.

I think the microwave's happy in that corner. I just have to decide whether to make it permanent. I don't want the wet counter molested by extra holes. The micro could stow for travel. Or, bolt it to a raised shelf? Hang it from the cupboards? Decisions. We'll see once I get the upper cubbies made.